Grape-pickers for Champagne sleeping outdoors in affluent French town – Guardian
Vineyards catering to high-end producers are facing accusations of mistreating seasonal workers. Read Full Article at RT.com.
An investigation has revealed troubling conditions for seasonal workers hired to pick grapes for France’s luxury champagne brands, who are reportedly facing homelessness and food scarcity.
According to a report by The Guardian, seasonal workers from West Africa and Eastern Europe have been found living on the streets or in makeshift tents in Epernay, northern France, due to a lack of accommodation provided by the vineyards. Many have been seen spending their nights in doorways near the town’s main train station.
Epernay is recognized as the home of some of the world’s most prestigious champagne brands, including Dom Perignon and Moet & Chandon. The region's total champagne shipments in 2023 reached 299 million bottles, bringing in over €6 billion in revenue, as reported by the industry body Comite Champagne.
The grape-picking season in Epernay runs from August to October, with this year’s yield estimated at 10 tons of grapes per hectare. Workers interviewed by the publication reported issues such as underpayment or, in some cases, not being paid at all. Many said they also struggled to access sufficient food, forcing them to resort to theft for survival.
“They were treated like dogs,” a retired winegrower told The Guardian. “The people who do that aren’t winegrowers: they’re exploiters,” he added.
Last year's grape-picking season was referred to as “the harvest of shame” after the deaths of four seasonal workers, suspected to have suffered from sunstroke. In a related case set for court in March, charges of human trafficking have been brought against four individuals, including a vineyard owner.
Unions have expressed difficulty in holding specific champagne houses accountable for the exploitation of workers, citing a complex system of delegated responsibilities among companies.
In response to the allegations, Comite Champagne issued a statement to The Guardian expressing “shock” at the “shameful practices” and urging authorities to increase control measures and impose severe penalties for any abuses.
The industry body also noted a decline in shipments this year, attributing it to “the sluggish global geopolitical and economic situation and widespread inflation.”
Ian Smith for TROIB News