Why Zelenskyy Chooses Not to Wear a Suit

The Ukrainian president has a profound reason for avoiding American-style formalwear.

Why Zelenskyy Chooses Not to Wear a Suit
Ukrainian President Volodymyr Zelenskyy’s recent Oval Office meeting with President Donald Trump and Vice President JD Vance not only sparked discussions about geopolitics but also ignited a debate about attire.

“Why don’t you wear a suit?” inquired Brian Glenn, a correspondent for the conservative Real America’s Voice network, eliciting a smirk from Vance. “You’re at the highest level in this country’s office, and you refuse to wear a suit.”

However, criticisms regarding Zelenskyy’s casual attire overlook an essential question: why does he choose to dress this way? The black tactical gear he donned during the Oval Office visit—and his signature olive-green fleeces and combat boots—reflect a broader visual transformation in Ukraine. This shift is influenced by the war’s impact on both the clothing industry and the military's integral role in Ukrainian society.

I spoke with Illia Ponomarenko, a Ukrainian journalist known for covering the war and authoring *I Will Show You How It Was: The Story of Wartime Kyiv,* to gain insight into the significance behind Zelenskyy’s fashion choices. “The clothes are more than clothes,” he stated. “They are part of a culture of people who are involved in this war.”

This conversation has been condensed for clarity and length.

In the U.S., ample debate exists regarding whether Zelenskyy should adopt a more formal dress code for diplomatic engagements. Yet, this discourse often reflects an American viewpoint. From a Ukrainian standpoint, what do you think influences his clothing choices?

Zelenskyy’s attire conveys a subtle, anti-elitist message. When meeting with influential figures, his clothing essentially asks, what are your priorities? Are you focused on saving lives, or are you caught up in formalities? Even when meeting royalty, he dresses in a manner that represents the average Ukrainian contributing to the war effort. It communicates, “I’m here as a representative of my humble people.”

The war has undeniably transformed various sectors in Ukraine, including the clothing industry. How has the conflict altered how Ukrainian brands approach technical and military apparel?

Since 2014, when the war with Russia began, the condition of the Ukrainian military was dismal. Resistance relied heavily on the self-organization of everyday citizens, like cab drivers and IT professionals, who formed volunteer battalions. They sought gear from hunting supply shops and military surplus stores to equip themselves for battle. This need fostered new supply opportunities.

Over time, new organizations emerged to provide higher-quality equipment. Many clothing companies are veteran-owned businesses that produce apparel for Ukrainians by Ukrainians, such as M-TAC, known for tactical gear, and Talan, recognized for boots. The emergence of this tactical clothing industry reflects the patriotism and resolve of individuals committed to defending Ukraine; these garments symbolize a culture of involvement in the war.

A friend employed as a war photographer in Ukraine mentioned that wearing tactical gear was somewhat frowned upon in civilian life before 2014, but that perception has shifted due to the war. How did the average Ukrainian perceive this style of clothing prior to the conflict?

The year 2014 marked a pivotal point in how the nation perceived military personnel and their service. Before the war, a soldier’s image was often associated with neglect and hardship; wearing military gear might have easily suggested a lack of prospects.

Following the onset of the conflict, the public perception of the military underwent significant improvement due to government reforms aimed at rebuilding defense capabilities. Many Ukrainians personally engaged in the war effort, leading to an awareness of the sacrifices made for freedom. The military has since become one of the most respected institutions in society, with uniforms now symbolizing honor and pride. Soldiers are better outfitted, further shifting the public’s conception of military service.

Are there distinctions regarding attire based on the level of involvement in the war effort?

Yes, there are distinct rules regarding camouflage. Civilians are generally prohibited from wearing it; they can opt for solid colors like navy, black, or olive green, but not camouflage, as it is considered disrespectful and akin to stolen valor. Camouflage is reserved for actual soldiers.

For his meeting with Trump, Zelenskyy wore what appeared to be a black tactical quarter-zip featuring the Ukrainian trident, paired with black pants. To many Americans, this might be viewed as casual wear rather than military attire. Can you elaborate on how these elements connect to the military?

Zelenskyy often chooses attire from Ukrainian brands like M-TAC. This brand produces clothing that can be considered both casual and suitable for war zones, including sweatshirts and hoodies. Such items can be worn with body armor and military jackets. As a former war reporter, I had similar sweaters and jackets, which I wore under my body armor. There are numerous ways tactical and casual clothing can be combined for functions in war zones, and what Zelenskyy wore could easily belong to someone serving in the military.

What significance does the Ukrainian trident hold?

The trident is a crucial national symbol and the official coat of arms of Ukraine. This particular emblem, which has three prongs, dates back a millennium to Prince Volodymyr the Great, who introduced Christianity to Eastern Slavs and remains one of Ukraine's historical figures.

Ukrainian men of fighting age face restrictions on leaving the country during the conflict. For those who secure exemptions to travel abroad, there seems to be a carefulness around online posting to avoid resentment from those remaining at home. Do you view Zelenskyy’s choice to wear tactical gear abroad as a method of signaling to those at home that he is working on behalf of the war effort?

Absolutely. Zelenskyy embodies a vast community of individuals actively contributing to the war and security efforts. In Ukrainian culture, there is a strong focus on equality; people value common purpose over status. When Zelenskyy travels abroad, it would be inappropriate for him to don high-end suits, as he aims to represent the collective spirit of his country.

Moreover, his clothing serves as a message that resonates with audiences beyond Ukraine.

Anna Muller contributed to this report for TROIB News